St Albans: Hazéls restaurant lives up to expectations

From the moment I arrived at Hazéls, located at 5 Verulam Road, it was clear that they intended to live up to their billing as a unique and intimate experience.

I arrived at the venue shortly before 8pm on Wednesday, July 31. (Image: Liam Fitzpatrick) The building itself is relatively small, seating just 25 people indoors, with further seating outdoors. 

The lovely outdoor seating area will be a hit if the weather stays warm. (Image: Liam Fitzpatrick) On this warm Wednesday evening, the venue was packed, as it has been almost every night since its launch a fortnight ago.

As you might expect, the first thing you notice is the music, played on vinyl by a live selector.

Chef and co-owner Drew Knight tells me that this unique approach is inspired by the Japanese Jazz Kissa cafés, where music is played for 'intent listening' rather than as background noise.

On this night, the music was being played by a young DJ named Caraway, with different selectors lined up throughout August.

Live selectors play music on vinyl every night. (Image: Liam Fitzpatrick) This, along with the ever changing menu means that no two visits to Hazéls will ever be the same.

The menu I was greeted with upon my arrival. (Image: Liam Fitzpatrick) The menu changes every day and all the food is completely seasonal.

This is inspired by French cuisine, bread and butter for Drew who trained at Mayfair's Connaught Hotel under legendary French chef Michel Bourdin.

He describes his menu as "modern favourites with a lot of classic French elements."

After speaking to Drew, it was time to dive into the menu, which tonight featured a variety of fish and meat-based dishes.

Read More

• Hazéls music-led restaurant to open in St Albans

• Hazéls music-led restaurant has strong opening in St Albans

For my starter, I opted for a plate of Salt Cod Fritters cooked in a tomato-based Romesco sauce and olive oil.

For my starter I opted for Salt Cod Fritters, with Romesco sauce and Senia Olive Oil. (Image: Liam Fitzpatrick) As a lover of fish, my hopes were high and they were somehow exceeded with the cod complemented perfectly by the sauce, giving it an added kick and flavour.

With my appetite suitably whetted, I moved on to my main course, comprised of Roast Barnsley Chop, cooked in Paloise sauce.

For my main, I went for Roast Barnsley Chop, with Paloise sauce and mashed potato. (Image: Liam Fitzpatrick) Originating in the Béarn province up in the mountains of France, this sauce is the French way of cooking lamb and uses mint instead of tarragon to complement the meal.

This was accompanied by elegantly presented mashed potato which perfectly accompanied the juicy and tender meat.

Possessing an unashamed sweet tooth, I couldn't turn down dessert and opted for a delightful dark chocolate cake, presented alongside Crème fraîche.

My sweet tooth was sated by dessert, with this dark chocolate cake rounding off the evening. (Image: Liam Fitzpatrick) While I myself am teetotal, it would be remiss of me not to mention the impressive wine and craft beer menu on offer, and the alcohol was flowing freely and joyfully on nearby tables.

As the evening wore on and darkness began to fall, the already intimate venue came into its own, feeling increasingly warm and homely.

As the night came to an end, my stomach was full and there was a smile on my face.

At a difficult time for the hospitality sector, this unique offering may well have cracked the code with an experience you're unlikely to find elsewhere.